I asked a nail expert which nails are *actually* healthy

For some reason, I’ve been using TikTok as a credible source for decision making. So when I recently came across videos telling me that all types of manicures, whether it’s the dipping pots of SNS to its supposedly healthier sister, BIAB, all sucked, I freaked out a little. Okay, maybe a lot.

I’m a nail girlie — I just don’t feel like myself if I don’t have a cool set of freshly painted nails, and I just have to get them done.

But when I came across this, it was a shock to my core. I’ve been living under the illusion that BIAB (short for ‘builder [gel] in a bottle’) was the best manicure option and that I’d been doing my nails a favour.

This felt like a wake up call — so I dialled in an expert.  

OPI’s Cheryl Cooke gave me the full, and completely honest, lowdown on manicure care and here were my five biggest takeaways:

1. Knowing how to love your nails the right way is sooo important, because unfortunately, it’s not a ‘one size fits all’ approach.

2. Manicures done correctly can actually protect your nail beds more than a naked nail. A lot of the issues with manicures stem from nail techs or at-home users over filing, applying coats incorrectly or removing polish in super damaging ways.

3. To my relief, regular upkeep is surprisingly one of the best ways to keep your nails healthy – so don’t be like me and let your nails grow out to borderline-ratchet lengths.

If you don’t believe me, Cheryl confirmed that “even leaving nail enhancements on for too much time as they start to weaken and become unbalanced puts stress on the natural nail.”

So basically, they’ll need to be taken off or replaced with a new set before getting too grown out. Otherwise your nails will become “susceptible to cracking, snagging and temptation to pick or peel off which takes layers of natural nail with it,” and we definitely don’t want that.

I’m always down for any excuse to get a new set, so this is great news.

4. At-home manis can be damaging, too, when they start chipping (ugh) so she recommends investing in high quality products.

Pro-tips: avoid products that stain your nails, always use a base and top coat like OPI’s Nail Envy to keep the nails protected, and try not to let products touch the skin — Cheryl says it’ll help your mani last longer, and it is what the nail techs do.

5. Nail polish and manicure removal have to be done correctly. I tend to go rogue and remove them when I feel like it, but my nails are always left extremely brittle and rough afterwards.

According to Cheryl, “forced removal creates damage so peeling nails off or nails not being soaked off long enough is detrimental to nail health,” so big whoops. She also says to go lightly when filing an already damaged nail, so that it’s not thinned even further as weaker nails don’t take well to any coating.

So, how do I take care of my natural nails? Luckily, Cheryl came through with some serious wisdom. Nails should be treated like your skin or the hair on your head, and as a curly girl with acne-prone skin, I know just how important that is.

It’s highly recommended to follow a daily routine — but realistically I can’t commit to that. So I’d say best practice is to fit it into your weekly schedule. That’s what I’ll be trying to do.

Keeping nails out of water as much as possible is a good way to stop them from drying out. But to keep them in top shape, I should be using a cuticle oil like the OPI ProSpa Nail & Cuticle Oil twice a day.

And you can’t oil your cuticles without also applying a strengthening serum, which repairs broken bonds and replaces lost keratin. Cheryl’s suggestion is a one like the OPI Repair Mode to do just that.

As for easy hacks you can follow, keep a soft nail file on hand to file away any uneven surfaces or nail bed dents, and wear gloves when coming into contact with water or chemicals.

So now, I think I’ve learnt my lesson, and I just know I’ll be trying my best to do all of that. Catch me applying cuticle oil and booking my next appointment ASAP to make sure my gorgeous sets aren’t growing out to insane lengths anymore.

Written by Nishika Sharma, who prides herself on creatively-themed nails and is taking inspiration from hydrangeas for her next set. You can follow her at @nishikasharma_ on socials.

Image credit: OPI Australia + Punkee