I’ll admit it, I’ve been sleeping on Canberra

I reckon I’ve been telling everyone who’d listen that I needed a weekend away for at least the last three months. Did everyone get sick of me complaining about my boredom and burnout? Absolutely. Did I do anything about it? Absolutely not.

So, you can imagine how delighted I was when Virgin Australia and Visit Canberra invited me to Canberra for a winter weekend escape. 

I’ll be honest, Canberra never once entered my thoughts as a destination. While I have some lovely, very well-adjusted mates who grew up in the city, my only real association with Canberra is the year five camp I went on back in the early 00s, when I was far too young to appreciate the scenery and serenity the city had to offer. 

Fast forward a couple of decades, and I am thrilled to say that Canberra absolutely exceeded my expectations. Do you like eating delicious food? Do you like drinking locally produced wine? Do you enjoy cold weather that is somehow fresh and not bitterly miserable? Do you like driving from one side of the city to the other in thirty minutes or less? Well, my friends, Canberra might just be the perfect destination for your next trip. 

Here’s how it all went down. 

In the uber on my way to food heaven. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

My Friday morning started with an effortless check-in thanks to the Virgin Australia app I’d downloaded the night before. As someone who tends to get a little stressed at airports, I found myself uncharacteristically nonchalant, eating a pastry in the Virgin Lounge within about fifteen minutes of arriving at the airport. A win for the anxious girlies.

Once I boarded the flight, I chucked my Airpods in, closed my eyes, opened them and was somehow already in Canberra before my podcast had finished. The flight from Melbourne to Canberra took just over one hour, aka twenty minutes longer than the Uber I caught from my apartment to the airport. Also, I’m not just saying this, but I was shocked at how well I felt after arriving. Historically I feel a little woozy on flights, but the journey was silky smooth from take-off to landing. 

Canberra airport in all it’s glassiness. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

From there, I headed straight to lunch and wine tasting at Nick O’Leary’s Heywood restaurant. The clear blue sky and lush green fields were the perfect backdrop for this intimate yet sleek venue. Though I consumed many different dishes (a recurring theme of the trip), my personal favourites included the hokkaido scallops with morcilla, beurre noisette and chilli, the Gold Street Dairy halloumi with compressed apple, fennel and salted potato, and the Butterfield Snowy Mountain trout with dill, capers and lemon. 

Delicious x3. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Paired with a bottle of Nick O’Leary Riesling (made 100% from their vines), I couldn’t have asked for a better first meal. After lunch, there was a wine tasting of five whites and five reds, with each sip tastier than the last (at least for my unsophisticated palette). 

With a gentle, respectable buzz, I was whisked off to the National Gallery Australia. The architecture alone was impressive, but then I went inside and my mind continued to be blown. I was lucky enough to receive a private guided tour of the Gauguin exhibition, Gauguin’s World: Tōna Iho, Tōna Ao. The NGA is the only gallery in Australia exhibiting this show, so it all felt very exclusive. 

Gauguin and SaVage Klub. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

The guide, a Senior Curator at the gallery, was so knowledgeable and passionate about the works that it made me stand up a little straighter and ask questions I didn’t anticipate asking. I was particularly impressed by the fact that the NGA was also exhibiting a collection known as SaVAge Klub, which ran concurrently with Gaguin’s World. Instead of “cancelling” the artist for his later works during his questionable time in The Pacific, the gallery juxtaposed it with pieces curated by Aotearoa/Pasifika artist, poet and activist, Rosanna Raymond MNZM. 

Naturally, I popped past NGA’s flawless James Turrell installation on the way out, because why wouldn’t you?

James Turrell @ Canberra. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Off to the hotel! The Midnight Hotel of Marriott’s Autograph Collection was a winner. From the fruit water and complimentary lollies at check in, to the most comfortable bed I’ve ever laid in, I thoroughly suggest checking into this Braddon-based hotel. 

After a quick nap, I headed to Onzieme for yet another stunning meal. Located in Kingston, the restaurant (which was Gourmet Traveller’s state winner in 2023), lived up to the hype. An intimate, dimly-lit small space with a “feed me” menu that fed me, I could not recommend this place more highly. Shoutout to the saffron artichokes, french onion consomme, spatchcock with corn, ginger and scallion, and the yuzu posset with meringue and raspberry. Yes, I died and went to heaven.

Onzieme. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

I awoke from likely the best sleep of my life on Saturday morning, grabbed a coffee and went straight to The Truffle Farm in the Majura Valley. Oh, my god. What an experience.

Greeted with a glass of prosecco, owner Jayson Mesman (aka the most charismatic man I’ve ever encountered) weaved a tale of the farm’s origins, which included his time training dogs for Australian Customs and a six-figure offer from Italy’s most prominent truffle family to purchase his dog, Samson (which he turned down). Netflix, if you’re reading this, give this man a movie.

Truffle Farm. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Before we sat down for the truffle degustation (can’t believe I got to write that sentence, let alone experience it), Jayson and one of his beautiful dogs, Vixen, took guests on a truffle hunt. Vixen is the most gorgeous dog I’ve ever seen and is a genius, but I think that might have something to do with her expert owner, who simply used two commands, “find it” and “show me” when working with the pup. 

Together, the group found two large bowls worth of truffles under the french oak, english oak and hazelnut trees. Retailing at $3k per kilogram, it was a pretty good effort I reckon. 

Jayson and Vixen. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

I genuinely struggle putting into words how phenomenal the degustation was. Jayson had recently hired Quay’s Kanharith (Kandi) Kim as his chef, and she did not disappoint. While the menu changes seasonally, the truffle features prominently in every dish, and for someone who had never eaten a truffle before, I can now say that unfortunately for my bank account, I am a huge fan. 

Hard to choose favourites, but the truffle mushroom agnolotti with shitake dashi broth, pepper oil and house made fresh truffle oil (requiring two days of prep), and the “Humble Crumble” which consisted of apple two-ways, meredith goats curd vanilla mousse, caramelised milk, barley praline, and brown butter/truffle ice cream, were both life-changing. 

THE humble crumble. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

After lunch, I rolled over to say a quick hello to the other pups (equally gorg), and moseyed on over to Mount Majura Vineyard. Another stunning location, I truly felt like I was in the Napa Valley amongst the vines. Of the six wines selected, I would recommend the Parallel Ridges Chardonnay from Tumbaruma, NSW, cos I’m just that kind of gal.

Mount Majura vineyard. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Back to the hotel, which was the perfect location for a quick dip in the pool and laying in bed watching Olympics highlights (aka sobbing watching Celine Dion’s comeback). After the most relaxing shower, it was time for dinner. Somehow. 

This is when I realised that the best thing about going to Canberra in winter is that you can wear oversized outer-layers to meals and stealthily unbutton your pants under the table. Honestly, it was the only way I survived the enormously delicious “feed me” menu upstairs at Edgar’s Inn in Ainslie. 

You guys, the struggle was real, but so was the quality of the food. I would personally recommend going there on a night you haven’t had a truffle degustation hours prior, however I pushed through and have no regrets. Order the wood fired prawns in Goan curry and snapper, coconut, lemongrass and pickled radish and thank me later. 

Dinner at Edgar’s Inn. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

On Sunday morning, after another perfect sleep aided by my food coma, I kept it local and hit up Barrio for a matcha then perused the Haig Park markets. Knowing more food was coming for me, I grabbed an apple scroll and got some steps in meandering through the stalls. It was wholesome as hell, and if I lived in Canberra it would definitely be my Sunday morning go-to.

Haig Park Markets. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Before heading to lunch (help!!) I swung past Mount Ainslie lookout for a picturesque view of the city. Gazing upon Lake Burley Griffin, the mountains and Parliament Houses old and new, this city felt so incomparable to anything I’ve experienced. How’s the serenity?!

Mount Ainslie Lookout view. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

My final stop was Beltana Farm. Located in Pialligo, this rustic and charming space offers farmhouse dining, accommodation and truffle hunts (classic Canberra). The kitchen is run by John Leverink, known for his work at iconic Canberra establishment, The Boat House, and the sharing menu absolutely blew me away. 

Beltana Farm. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Sitting in full view of the truffle trees, I honestly could have shed a single tear digging into this farm-to-table produce. The starters alone – potato damper with macadamia dukkha, whipped brie and burnt onion, and truffle and cuttlefish salami – were sensational, but if you’re ever lucky enough to get a table there, please order the truffle roasted chicken, cavolo nero and truffle onion jus. You’ll be chuffed.

Lunch at Beltana Farm. Image credit: Supplied by Lil.

Lunch wrapped, and less than ten minutes later I was at the airport. I’m not exaggerating when I say it takes at least 30 minutes to get from anywhere in Melbourne to the airport, let alone after a luxurious long lunch, so I was highly impressed. Another quick Virgin Lounge visit and a seamless flight home and back to reality. 

I am so thankful to Virgin Australia and Visit Canberra for this incredible opportunity eating and drinking my way through the Nation’s Capital. It’s always such a lovely feeling when you discover new places within the country to explore, especially places you might have subconsciously written off.

Ready to book your flights to Canberra? Virgin Australia currently operates up to 67 return services per week into Canberra, including direct flights from Gold Coast, Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Winter really is the perfect time to don your chicest coat (to conceal your unbuttoned pants), jump on a plane and indulge in all of Canberra’s luxe offerings, so go prove yourself wrong and enjoy!  

Written by Lil Friedmann, who’s now frantically googling ‘retired truffle puppies to adopt’. You can follow her at @lilfriedmann on socials.

Image credit: Supplied by Lil.